Home Contact Development

VoltMagic for R/C

FAQs  

Home
FAQs
VoltMagic Pilots
2R Demo
Instructions
Dealers
Reviews
Upgrade

 

FAQ's

First, don't skip the instructions.  There is a lot of functionality in this little device, so expect to do a little more than just plug it in.  The time spent may just prevent a crash one day.  Have a comment or a question not answered here, email us.  Also check out VoltMagic simplified by Ron Lund of HeliProz South.

I have the new version Z with normal and low range PLV.  With Normal Range PLV it blinks yellow or red, but on Low Range it's good.  Should I use Low Range PLV, or upgrade the battery, regulator, or switch harness?

It's up to the pilot.  Some of today's power hungry servos make it harder (but not impossible) to keep the peak low voltage out of the yellow/red using Normal Range PLV (see Table 2 for the trigger points).

NOTE:  For Low Range PLV with the 4-cell or regulator ranges, the first yellow PLV alert is 3.8 volts.  This is the same voltage at which some manufacturers initiate their battery failsafe IF a time delay period elapses.  Typically the voltage will spike below 3.8 momentarily BEFORE it stays low long enough to initiate the battery failsafe.   Absolute minimum voltage requirements vary, and manufacturer’s ratings may not include this information. Some airborne equipment may require 3.5 volts (or more), some may tolerate 3.0 volts.  The failure mode from momentary undervoltage also varies widely.  Notable is the reconnect time for some types of receivers (see 2.4 GHz).

After a fresh charge on a NiCd or NiMh battery , the top green LED is lit.  After the first flight it's on the second to last green LED.  Is this normal?

Yes, battery voltage drops off quickly at first, then very slowly, until it starts to drop off faster as the end of the charge approaches.   Voltage at the top is a good indicator that the battery was charged recently.  Tech Tip: At 75% to 50% charge, it should typically be on the last green LED after turning on the radio and stirring the sticks. You could discharge to about the 50% level and set the averaged voltage range so it's on the last green LED.  Note that as batteries age, their impedance increases, so as batteries age they will show lower voltage.

My airplane or heli has PLV (peak low voltage) blinking at the red LED when the battery has plenty of capacity left.  It will even blink the red LED on the ground if I wiggle the sticks fast.  The battery checks fine with my loaded battery tester (ESV).  I've been flying it this way for a while, so it must be OK -- right?

Here's a graph of what can happen to voltage.  This example is from a regulator and Li battery setup with five digital servos moving simultaneously on the bench without load.  The voltage was 5.2 with the servos at idle and the 4000mah Li battery was >7.1V under a 1 amp load, so it appeared satisfactory -- except that VoltMagic had two blinks on the lowest red LED from simply stirring the sticks.   Obviously Ni battery setups can have the same issues.  This is just an example to illustrate what Voltmagic detects that common methods don't.

Abnormal low voltage graph of a widely available voltage regulator and lithium battery supplying 5 healthy digital servos that are reversing directions without load.

First, double check that VoltMagic is configured for the right range.  The LED pattern for the configured range is displayed on power up at the end of the LED test.  If the range is correct, it's trying to tell you something.  Typical airborne equipment will still function down to something less than 3.8 volts, but safety margins are like insurance, there when you need them.

Note: Since 5-Cell Ni and 2-cell Li packs (without a regulator) run at higher voltages, more voltage drop can be tolerated.  However, this could lead to not detecting problems early enough, so the PLV trigger points are raised appropriately for these ranges.  VoltMagic versions 2RZ and 2YZ include Normal and Low Range PLV to further customize the monitor to your setup.

 

Short explanation:
For the given servo load, the battery, regulator, switch and/or connecters are not keeping the voltage above the indicated PLV.  Note that the PLV must actually go lower than the trigger point for the appropriate LED to blink.  See TROUBLESHOOTING and TOP REASONS for LOW PLV

What is an easy way to remember how to read the PLV (peak low voltage)?  Which blink is what voltage?  And why isn't the PLV scaled the same way as averaged voltage, why the blinks?
 
You can make a copy of Table 2 from the instructions and keep it in your field box and hi-lite the range it's set for.  The color of the blinking LED gives a quick indication of severity level, so knowing the precise voltage isn't necessary to spot a problem quickly.

It could take over 20 LEDs to cover the spread from highest to lowest voltage in  0.1 volt increments, so blinking is a space saver.  Also, color is a factor -- 4.7 volts is low (red) for averaged voltage, but it's exceptionally high as PLV goes.  So using blinks for PLV with a different scaling makes a lot of sense.

When it's cold, the PLV (peak low voltage) is in the yellow or red when I "stirred the sticks" on pre-flight.  Indoors it was back to normal.  Are batteries that sensitive to temperature?

Different batteries will handle temperature differently, but generally batteries are best on a warm day.  A good pre-flight should include rapidly moving the servos and checking the PLV.

My airplane or heli has PLV (peak low voltage) blinking at the yellow LED about when I normally charge the battery.  Is this common?
 
Often that's the case.  It depends on the current load of the servos, discharge curve of the battery, and the associated voltage drops in the system.

What is typically a good 4 or 5 cell NiCd or NiMh, single battery setup with DIGITAL Servos?

BATTERY - A pack with cells such as 1950HR4/5FAUP, N1900SCR or similar.  Preferably 5 milliohms or less impedance.  Impedance determines voltage drop, not the batteries MAH capacity.

SWITCH HARNESS - Futaba HD (or equivalent).  Replace the battery connecter with a PowerPole or Deans.  Optional: feed the receiver with two leads to further cut resistance and voltage drop (click for big pics).


VOLTMAGIC - PLV (Peak Low Voltage) is a good indicator of how well the setup is maintaining voltage.

Battery voltage graph

Above is a 5 amp discharge test of a Sanyo 1950FAUP (black) and a generic battery pack with a 2700mah rating (red).  5 amps is an arbitrary choice to illustrate differences in batteries, every setup will have a different peak current.  At higher peak currents, voltages would be lower then the graph shows (and vice versa).

Even though average current is usually less, peaks of 5 amps would cause a voltage drop to the level shown in the graph.  (Also note that a battery has capacitance that tends to dampen extremely fast voltage fluctuations.)  Only the voltage drop of a single R/C connector on the battery is included on the graph.  A switch or connecter with excessive resistance could make either battery significantly lower.  VoltMagic is looking for these problems when you stir the sticks on pre-flight, and while you fly.

Without VoltMagic, you could probably fly the "red line" for quite a while and not even know how little safety margin was left.  The same potential exists for voltage regulators.

What about DUAL batteries?  How are they better?

Dual batteries packs in parallel, each with their own switch harness, are basically twice as good.  The voltage drop is half of what the same single pack would be, and the MAH is double.  Good choice for larger aircraft.

I've read on the internet to not use NiMh batteries because they have more voltage drop then NiCd batteries, is this true?

The battery chemistry, NiMh or NiCd, tell you nothing about the impedance or the voltage drop under load.  Either type can be made for slow discharge and low amps, or fast discharge and high amps. The latter is what you likely want for digital servos, the lower the impedance the better they'll maintain voltage.

When NiMh first came out they were mostly slow discharge, so that's the reputation they started with, and it still haunts them today.  Actually, some of the lowest impedance cells are NiMh.  Many web sites perpetuate outdated generalities about batteries, it's a changing field.

Side note:  More MAH doesn't necessarily mean less voltage drop either.  Bottom line, If you measure the PLV, you don't have to guess about minimum voltage.

I'm having trouble getting into configuration mode; what might be the problem?

The instructions say to continuously toggle the channel connected to VoltMagic back and forth quickly during the first 3 seconds after power up until green LED 1 starts blinking (LED 1 blinks continuously during configuration).  Then, toggle the channel slowly to step through the choices.

"Quickly" and "during the first 3 seconds..." are the key words.  You can also plug a servo in place of VoltMagic, then verify it moves with the correct switch or control.

Also note that the ATV/End Points for the channel connected to VoltMagic have to be 85% (or more) to enter configuration.  Check transmitter programming for any mixes or settings that might affect the channel.

With Lithium (LiPo) batteries and a voltage regulator, where should VoltMagic be connected?

While VoltMagic can monitor the two cell LiPo battery itself (good for testing if the battery voltage is sagging too much under load), the best place is connected to the receiver so it can monitor the output of the voltage regulator and check for glitches or failsafes.  Use one of the four regulator ranges on the 2R for best results.  If the lithium battery dips too low at the input of the regulator, it will show up as low voltage at the output. Regulators require the input voltage to be higher, often at least 1 volt greater than the output.  Of course, the ideal setup is with servos that handle the 7.4 lithium battery without a regulator.

I'm testing the glitch detection by turning the transmitter off, or by turning on another transmitter on the same frequency.  It doesn't seem to work unless I leave the transmitter and receiver on for a minute before testing, why?

VoltMagic checks for the existence of servo pulses after one minute of operation.  If pulses exist, glitch (or failsafe) detection is enabled at that time.  The one minute delay allows time for turning on the transmitter, noise from a glow plug connector, etc.

I'd like to use VoltMagic's PCM failsafe detection, but I'm having trouble setting up the failsafe (for the channel connected to VoltMagic) on my transmitter.

Every transmitter has a slightly different procedure for setting a failsafe.  If you haven't already, read the section in your transmitter's manual regarding failsafe setting.  There are usually two types of failsafes that you can select for each channel: "hold last position" and "preset position."  The "preset position" is what you want for VoltMagic and your throttle (idle).  All the radios we have seen require that you use a switch, dial, or joystick to set the particular channel(s) to a desired position, then press something to memorize that position as the failsafe.  Most radios set one channel at a time, but some set all the channels at once.  The term "position" is used because typically we're talking about a servo, but in the case of VoltMagic it's just a signal.  The "position" that VoltMagic will count as a failsafe is full maximum (not 100% but the max endpoint or ATV for the radio) in either direction.  If the channel uses a two position switch, either position will work.  If the channel uses a dial, full clockwise or anti-clockwise will work.  Double check that you don't accidentally have a Pmix or other function acting on the channel.   After the failsafe position is set to this maximum value, the end point or ATV must be reduced (to 85%) so the switch or dial doesn't put the signal going to VoltMagic in the failsafe zone and create a false alarm.  There is no point in repeating the VoltMagic Installation Instructions here, so read the section on Glitch or PCM Failsafe Detection and then follow the steps.

Notes for Futaba 9C radios (typical of many radios).
Check that the THR>NEEDL mixing and GOVERNOR function are either inhibited, or not using the channel VoltMagic is connected to (pages 58 & 97 of the manual).  There is also some important info on page 39 about functions that can take over a channel.  On page 43 is the Failsafe setting procedure. Note that you have to select the channel on the screen (each channel is set separately) AND you have to hold down the "wheel" for greater then 1 second to confirm.  The transmitter sends the failsafe settings at 2 minute intervals, so wait 2 minutes before turning the TX off for a test.

Notes for Futaba 9Z radios
Channel 9 doesn't have a failsafe position, use channel 7 or 8 and use 9 for something that doesn't need a failsafe (e.g. governor on/off).  Failsafe positions for the 9Z are set individually for each channel (hold last position is also an option for each channel).  For the VoltMagic channel, set the AFR (Adjustable Function Rate) to 100% in both directions for all flight conditions.  Set the ATV for the VoltMagic channel to 140% on both sides, then set the failsafe, which should read plus or minus 100% on the F/S screen (the ATV and failsafe are scaled differently).  The switch (or control) for VoltMagic must not be in a mid position when setting the failsafe.  After setting the failsafe, set the ATV to 85% on both sides for all flight conditions.  LIM mode for ATV is preferred because AFR or PMX will not drive the signal into the failsafe zone (useful if the channel is shared with something that doesn't mind the VoltMagic failsafe position).

Notes for JR 10X radios
Failsafe is code 77.  The options are different depending on whether ZPCM or SPCM is selected (hold last position is an option for each channel with SPCM).  Channels 9 and 10 do not have a failsafe position, use channel 7 or 8 and use 9 and 10 for something that doesn't need a failsafe (e.g. governor on/off).  Since failsafe positions for the 10X are all set at the same time, ensure the throttle is set to idle and the other controls are where you want them.  Set the ATV for the VoltMagic channel to 150% on both sides, then set the failsafe.  The switch (or control) for VoltMagic must not be in a mid position when setting the failsafe.  After setting the failsafe, set the ATV to 85% on both sides.

My transmitter doesn't have ATV (end point) adjustment OR failsafe setting for channel X.  Can I use FAILSAFE detection on channel X?  (Often channel 9 or higher).

The short answer is no.  Some receivers like the R149DP have channel 9 combined with the battery input (marked 9/B).  You can plug the battery into the connecter marked DSC to free up the channel 9 slot.  If 7 and 8 are currently in use, move one of them to 9 to free it up for VoltMagic.  (The DSC slot can also be used with a dual battery setup.)

Is stirring the sticks and checking the PLV with VoltMagic on pre-flight really worth doing?  Aren't the voltage dips going to be much lower under load while flying?

Quick reversal of a servo's direction causes current spikes that approximate actual flying.  If your battery is getting low and the PLV is blinking after a flight, try this: Stir the sticks and compare the PLV (Peak Low Voltage) to what you had while flying.  If your not an aggressive pilot, the PLV on the ground may actually be lower!  The duration of the dips is longer under load, but the voltage at the bottom of the dip is usually close to the same.

 

Note: Common multi-meters and data loggers with min/max features are usually to slow for this.  A Fluke 187 multi-meter on fast min/max will give good results (so will a scope), but the price tag is pretty high, there's no glitch or failsafe counting, and the flying weight is tremendous.

Where is a good place to mount VoltMagic on a heli without a clear window in the canopy?

Here's a picture of a MinAir Fury with VoltMagic double-stick tape mounted to the left engine mount.
The ultimate R/C voltage monitor and glitch counter (even when mounted upside down).  Detect abnormal low voltages, current average voltage, and count glitches or failsafes.
Avoid servo extensions and keep the wires away from the fan area.  If you mount it upside down, it's easier to read while hovering inverted.

What are some ideas to reduce or eliminate glitches?

Glitches can be caused by the transmitter, receiver, external interference, or interference caused by the aircraft.  Always check the radio equipment on the ground for proper range, then use VoltMagic to detect glitches while moving the transmitter antenna, etc.  Route the receiver antenna away from the aircraft as much as possible and avoid things that would shield it or introduce noise.  Interference from the model itself is typically from loose parts rubbing and/or static discharge.

The static electricity issue can usually be solved by connecting the electrically isolated metal parts together with a bonding jumper wire.  The picture below illustrates a very simple method for helicopters using wire jumpers with ring lugs at either end under screws that make contact with the metallic frame parts.
Static charge glitch busting with bonding jumpers.

Does VoltMagic eliminate using a loaded volt meter?

No, and a loaded volt meter is not a substitute for VoltMagic.  The adjustable battery voltage algorithm in VoltMagic is an excellent rough indicator, but not as precise as a known load and volt meter**.  The peak low voltage and glitch counting with VoltMagic are beyond the scope of a loaded meter; but just as important.  VoltMagic begins where a loaded voltmeter ends.

** To accurately use a known load and voltmeter to estimate battery capacity remaining, the voltage discharge curve of the battery must be taken into account.  Rules of thumb (and many loaded volt meters) that worked fine with a 600mah NiCd battery are not even close for a large capacity high discharge battery.

How do I decide what average voltage range to use for my battery?

There is some personal preference in this choice.  Typically, with 50% charge, it should be on the last green LED after turning on the radio and stirring the sticks, adjust as desired.  When to charge a battery will depend on battery characteristics, amperage, flight duration, etc. Using battery load, discharge, or capacity test instruments, in addition to VoltMagic, is good practice.  All of the ranges are listed in Table 1 of the instructions.  The highest voltage listed for the range is for green LED 1 and the highest is for red LED 8.  Each LED is a 0.1 volt increment.

How do I choose a battery pack (for regulators also)?

Selecting an appropriate battery for your application is important.  If your battery has too much voltage drop with load (Peak Low Voltage in the red zone), or not enough capacity, you may be short on safety margin.  Regulators, and the batteries that supply them, may not have enough power either.  Some digital servos have peaks well over 2 amps.  If severe voltage dips occur, VoltMagic will catch them.

For a discussion of battery impedance, specs, and a selection of packs try this page at Hangtimes-NoBS Batteries.

Do any servo manufacturer's recommend installing a monitor when using digital servos?  Why do digital servos draw more current?

Yes, Futaba has recommended installing a monitor.  See this paper about digital servos, it's near the bottom.


  VoltMagic.com

The latest instructions are available for download.  Diagrams, tables, and flow charts included.

 

Contact VoltMagic

The ultimate R/C voltage monitor and glitch counter.  Record abnormal low voltages, display the current average voltage, and count glitches or failsafes.

 

VoltMagic - Don't take off without it!

Home ] [ FAQs ] VoltMagic Pilots ] 2R Demo ] Instructions ] Dealers ] Reviews ] Upgrade ]


Copyright © 2007 VoltMagic.com